Arturo Rivera Martínez stood over an insanely hot grill Wednesday at his newly minted Michelin-starred establishment—the first Mexican taco stand ever to get a coveted star from the French dining guide—and did exactly the same thing he’s been doing for 20 years: searing meat. Though Michelin representatives came by Wednesday to present him with one of the company’s heavy, full-sleeved, pristine white chef’s jackets, he didn’t put it on: In this tiny, 10-by-10-foot business, the heat...

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