The most delicious strawberry I’ve ever tasted came from my grandparent’s garden, in Sofia, Bulgaria. It was the size of a gummy, looked like a woodland ruby, and tasted like it had grown in the Swiss Alps. The second-best strawberry came from a vertical farm in New Jersey. It was the color of a white nectarine, sweet and delicate, and it was picked by a robot. About a 90-minute drive from New York City, near a sprawling field of solar panels, stands a pale-colored building that, just...

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