Taste is a powerful vessel for time travel. And, well, if you’re going to try to resurrect a nostalgic brand from yesteryear, that time machine better work. It’s 2024, and I’m staring at a new bottle of Clearly Canadian identical to the ones I drank as a kid in the ’90s as an occasional exotic treat. After a premature death and a wild crowdfunded return, the brand is back on its feet—and it’s thriving, with tens of millions of bottles sold, a presence in some 33,600 stores, and new...

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